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Free Hewlett Packard Manuals and Free Hewlett Packard User Guides. HPI Technologies compiled lists of Hewlett Packard manuals conveniently divided by printer type. Here you can find everything from advanced operation manuals, basic operation manuals, parts manuals, service manuals, technical bulletins, network setup guides, as well as many others.

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Hp Laserjet 1320 Service Manual Free Download

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Hp 1320 Service Manual Free Download

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Introduction

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your HP LaserJet 1160 or 1320, use our service manual.

Laserjet 1320 Service Manual

• This teardown of the HP LaserJet 1320 is officially the first laser printer teardown on iFixit.

• It took almost 7 hours to take apart this amazingly complex printer.

• Spoiler alert: It's really nice to see something this repairable.

• Also, check out the complete repair guide for this printer!

• According to the service manual (there is a link in the documents section), the left cover of the printer can be opened without any tools by pulling on 2 tabs.

• The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds.

• Now on to the formatter.

• Remove 2 screws on the I/O port cover.

• Remove 6 screws on the formatter cover.

• Disconnect 3 connectors to the laser assembly, the cartridge connector, and the control panel.

• Disconnect 2 flat flexible cables to the laser assembly and the control board.

• While the service manual says not to use a PoziDriv screwdriver, I found that using a normal Phillips screwdriver on the screws in this printer would require excess force and damage the screws, but a PoziDriv screwdriver removed the screws without causing any damage.

• Chips on the formatter:

• PCA9551 I2C LED Blinker. I never knew there was a chip with the sole purpose of blinking LEDs.

• STMicroelectronics E6V2HP

• SC414445VF Proprietary ASIC

• More chips on the formatter...

• The large gray object on the right is a 100-pin DIMM slot for expanding the internal memory.

• Removing the right cover is as easy as disengaging 3 tabs with the printer turned on its side.

• The back cover can be removed by removing 4 screws on the back of the printer.

• The duplexer tray can be removed by pulling outwards on the bluegreen blue-green tab, which releases the magnets that hold the tray in place.

• Remove 2 screws on the back of the printer, one on the left side, and one on the front.

• After disconnecting the control panel cable, the top cover can be removed.

• The control panel and its circuit board can easily be removed with a metal spudger.

• Remove one cable from the laser assembly.

• Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly.

• After removing the cover and the clips holding in the lenses, the inside of the laser assembly can be seen.

• The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found.

• The board mounted on the side of the laser assembly contains the infrared laser diode and a photodiode to sense the beam direction. It has a chip marked as RH4-5444, for which no datasheet could be found.

• Disconnect the fan cable from the control board on the back of the printer.

• Remove the retaining clip from the fan.

• Remove 2 screws holding in the fan.

• While the fan can not be completely removed yet, this will make it easier to take apart other parts of the printer.

• Remove 1 screw from the top of the cartridge connector.

• Remove 1 screw on the front of the cartridge connector.

• The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer.

• The cable clip for the laser assembly cable can be removed from the chassis.

• Disconnect the duplexer cable from the control board.

• Disconnect the duplexer solenoid cable from the duplexer PCB.

• Remove one screw from the PCB and remove the PCB from the printer.

• This tiny board contains 2 NPN transistors marked C2120 and C1815, which are used to drive the duplexer solenoid.

• Remove 3 screws on the duplexer gear assembly.

• The duplexer gearbox can now be removed.

• Remove one screw holding down the duplexer solenoid.

• This appears to be a standard 24V open-frame solenoid, although no markings were found on it.

• Remove 3 screws to remove the safety interlock assembly.

• Disconnect 2 spade connectors from the microswitch.

• The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open.

• The fan cable can now be derouted from the cable guide and the fan can be removed.

• The fan is a standard 24V brushless fan with a speed sensor manufactured by Nidec.

• Disconnect 2 cables from the control board.

• Remove the gear from the fuser shaft.

• Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide.

• Remove 4 screws to remove the main gear assembly.

• Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid.

• The cartridge door can be removed by removing 2 screws on the front of the printer.

• The pickup roller can now be removed by rotating the white tabs upwards and pulling them out.

• Remove 2 screws to remove the paper feed bar.

• Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly.

• Remove one gear on the output shaft of the fuser.

• Disconnect the cable to the tray connector and route it through the hole in the chassis.

• You are now halfway through the teardown.

• Disconnect 2 cables from the control board and remove them from the cable guide.

• Remove the cable guide from the chassis.

• Remove the cable guide on the other side of the chassis.

• Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board.

• Disconnect the high voltage wire from the fuser.

• Deroute the tray connector cable through the cable guide.

• Disconnect the main motor cable.

• Remove 3 screws from the right side of the printer.

• Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer.

• The fuser can now be removed from the printer.

• Remove one screw on the front of the fuser.

• Remove one screw on the top of the fuser.

• The paper output assembly can now be removed.

• Remove one spring and one screw from each side of the fuser.

• Remove the large springs at each side of the fuser by pushing in on the plastic inserts.

• The springs will fly out violently if you do not hold them with pliers.

• Remove one screw on the fuser.

• Remove the metal piece held down by the spring on each side of the fuser.

• The fuser roller can be removed from the printer.

• The white wires on the left connect to a temperature sensor.

• The large connector on the right connects to the heating element and a thermal fuse.

• Disconnect the snap-on connector from the right side of the fuser roller.

• The heating element can be removed from its channel in the roller.

• The heating element is a 576-watt thick film ceramic heater.

• Remove the plastic clip from both sides of the roller.

• The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way.

• After removing the metal cover, the temperature sensor (red) and the thermal fuse (orange) can be removed.

• The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat.

• After removing the plastic clip, the soft foam pressure roller can be removed.

• The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector.

• Remove 2 screws to remove the metal bar from the fuser.

• After removing one screw, this small circuit board can be removed.

• The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light.

• Remove 4 screws on each side of the printer to remove the metal midframe piece that holds the chassis together.

• The massive control board can now be seen.

• Remove the metal feed plate from the paper feed mechanism.

• Remove the tray connector and motor cables from the cable guide.

• The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly)

• Remove one screw holding down the tray connector cable guide and then remove the cable guide.

• Remove one screw on the printer chassis.

• Remove 2 screws from the left side of the chassis.

• Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis.

• Bend the chassis to allow the control board to come loose, and disconnect the 2 cables to the paper feed assembly to remove the control board.

• Remove 4 screws on the control board to remove it from the metal plate.

• Here are the major components on the top side of the control board:

• CR8KM-12A Thyristor (Most likely for fuser control)

• Unidentified high-voltage transformers

• 220uF 200V capacitor

• Main switching transformer

• Chips on the back of the board:

• STMicroelectronics 324 E9SU518 - Possibly an LM324 Quad Op Amp?

• STMicroelectronics 339 E9W2513 - Possibly an LM339 Quad Comparator?

• Unidentified Texas Instruments chip with the part number sanded off.

• Large QFP chip with the part number sanded off and a red and a blue mark on top.

• Interestingly, all the chips were covered in a clear coating that made it hard to read the part numbers.

• It appears that whoever designed this board was trying to prevent reverse engineering by making it hard to read the part numbers on the chips.

• The main motor can be removed after unclipping the cable guide and removing 3 screws.

• The motor is a Nidec RK2-0419, which appears to be appears to be a fairly powerful 'outrunner' style brushless motor rated for 1.3A at 24V. The rotor (the round metal part) is about 3 inches in diameter and the entire motor weighs about 15 ounces.

• This motor might be a special motor designed for use in this printer, as it and many other components have a number with the format RK2-0xxx on them.

• The single chip on the motor is a BD6761FS Brushless Motor Driver.

• At this point, all that is left of the printer is the metal chassis and the paper feed assembly, a large chunk of plastic containing 2 more beam interrupt sensors.

• This printer receives a perfect repairability score of 10/10.

• No adhesives, thermoplastic staking, spot welding, or rivets are used.

• Service manuals for this and most HP printers are easy to find and free.

• Replacement parts are easy to find.

• Printer is designed to be repaired.

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